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<h1><b><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt;
font-weight:normal'>What’s not shown is a great picture of Herb on front
cover of magazine.<o:p></o:p></span></font></b></h1>
<h1><b><font size=4 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:13.5pt'>GONE
FISHING <br>
Into Cold Water <br>
Winter steelheading on the Trinity River</span></font><o:p></o:p></b></h1>
<p class=author><font size=1 face="Times New Roman"><!-- START WRITER CREDIT--><span
style='font-size:7.5pt'><a href="mailto:swhiting@sfchronicle.com"><!-- END HEADLINE/DECK & SUBHEADLINE/SUBDECK -->Sam
Whiting</a></span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=date><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>Sunday,
February 4, 2007<o:p></o:p></span><!-- END WRITER CREDIT--></font></p>
<table class=MsoNormalTable border=0 cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=right
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<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-element:frame'><font size=3
face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'><a
href="http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/object/article?f=/c/a/2007/02/04/CMGUPNFS1B1.DTL&o=0"><span
style='text-decoration:none'><img border=0 width=64 height=64
id="_x0000_i1025" src="cid:image001.gif@01C74869.221E5E50" vspace=1
alt="Trinity Fly Shop owner Herb Burton fly fishing in the Tri..."></span></a><a
href="http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/object/article?f=/c/a/2007/02/04/CMGUPNFS1B1.DTL&o=1"><span
style='text-decoration:none'><img border=0 width=64 height=64
id="_x0000_i1026" src="cid:image002.gif@01C74869.221E5E50" vspace=1
alt="Herb Burton, a 24-year river guide, on the Trinity River,..."></span></a><a
href="http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/object/article?f=/c/a/2007/02/04/CMGUPNFS1B1.DTL&o=2"><span
style='text-decoration:none'><img border=0 width=64 height=64
id="_x0000_i1027" src="cid:image003.gif@01C74869.221E5E50" vspace=1
alt="A view of Herb Burton, 24-year-river guide, and the Trini..."></span></a><a
href="http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/object/article?f=/c/a/2007/02/04/CMGUPNFS1B1.DTL&o=3"><span
style='text-decoration:none'><img border=0 width=64 height=64
id="_x0000_i1028" src="cid:image004.gif@01C74869.221E5E50" vspace=1
alt="A two-year hatchery steelhead is caught on the Trinity Ri..."></span></a><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto;
margin-left:.25in;mso-element:frame'><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
</td>
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<td style='padding:1.8pt 1.8pt 1.8pt 1.8pt'><!-- end #additionalcontent -->
<p class=MsoNormal style='mso-element:frame'><font size=3
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<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>It is 41
degrees in the water and 42 in the air, and <st1:PersonName w:st="on">Herb
Burton</st1:PersonName> is halfway in each. His toes are numb and his fingers
are getting there and a 5-pound steelhead has just risen from the rocky bottom
of the <st1:place w:st="on">Trinity River</st1:place> and grabbed his dry fly
off the surface. Instantly, the angler is in a tug-of-war with something as
wild and jolting as electricity. Just as instantly the big fish has snapped the
line, taking the fly back to the bottom with it. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt'>Burton</span></font></st1:place></st1:City><font
size=2><span style='font-size:10.0pt'> is left standing there with nowhere for
his adrenaline to go. A rod-snapping rage would be in order, but he only
laughs. He's been a fishing guide on this river for 24 years, but today he is
fishing, not guiding, and the start of his 25th year may as well be the start
of his first. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>It's the
last day of fall and thousands of oceangoing rainbow trout are making their run
up the Trinity from the Pacific. Last year's heavy runoff, combined with a
legal victory for the fish after a 23-year battle, has allowed for the highest
flow release for fishery purposes since Trinity Dam was built in 1963. Between
20,000 and 40,000 steelhead, as large as 19 pounds, are estimated to be in the
110-mile river, some of which swam to <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">Japan</st1:place></st1:country-region> and back just for the honor.
As one California Trout board member explained, the renewal of the Trinity can
be summarized in three words: "Just add water." </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>"There
aren't many rivers that I can step into and say it's every bit as good as it
was when I first fished it, and probably better," <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City> says, even though he has reasons not
to want to say this. The Trinity, which can be as narrow as a trout stream in
places, has been discovered by the big river guides from <st1:State w:st="on">Alaska</st1:State>
and <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Canada</st1:place></st1:country-region>.
In winter, their clients are dressed up like <st1:State w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">Minnesota</st1:place></st1:State> ice fishermen, riding in drift
boats as if they were taxicabs, stacking up wherever the fish are. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>When <st1:City
w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City> arrived in 1982,
he had the second guide permit on the river and "for six years I could
fish anywhere I wanted with my customers," he says. "There was
nobody." Now there are at least 60 permits with who knows how many guides
working under them. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Pressure
on the water doesn't help a guy like <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City>,
who has kept his operation small to protect the resource. It is a two-man
outfit -- <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City>
and Kit Kreick -- and their bookings are passed down through generations the
way 49er tickets were in the late 1980s. Reluctant to take out a writer and a
photographer, <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City>
is vague with the directions he gives over the phone. First there is a
scavenger hunt for a fishing license and steelhead stamp at a Longs Drug Store
off Interstate 5 in <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Redding</st1:place></st1:City>.
An hour west on Highway 299, there is a missed turnoff, which leads to a
14-mile overshoot. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Back up
the hill and down <st1:Street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">Old Lewiston
Road</st1:address></st1:Street>, the Trinity Fly Shop is marked by a 20-foot
cedar plank carved into a steelhead and a yellow lab named Buddy lounging on
the plank porch. The first thing you notice about Buddy is that he's an
in-and-out dog. You go in, he goes in. You go out, he goes out. The first thing
you notice about Buddy's owner is that he looks younger than his old-timer's
fishing name, <st1:PersonName w:st="on">Herb Burton</st1:PersonName>. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>The going
rate for a guided day on the Trinity is $350 to $450, plus tip. Other outfits
allow their clients to fish from high-sided drift boats and use brightly
colored strike indicators. When the little colored ball disappears underwater,
the client pulls up and has a steelhead. The guide gets the boat into position
to net it for the photo and the result might make the brochure. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>That's
not how <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City>
does it. "We'd rather take the time to teach you how to properly
fish," he says, "than run you down the middle of the river and catch
fish for you." </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>In place
of a drift boat he uses an inflatable raft, which is prone to taking on water,
and makes his clients get out and wade in the cold, stiff current, numb feet
feeling for purchase on the rock bottom. When he sees fear in the eyes of a
guest, he steps in and leads the way, making it look as easy as strolling the
sands of Waikiki. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>The
essential promise of fly-fishing is that when done correctly, it is impossible
for the mind to wander, especially when there is the fear of falling into the
cold water and being swept away. The promise of the Trinity is that if you do
it for a day, you will hook into a steelhead, pound for pound the toughest
fighting fish there is. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>In the
water, <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City>
becomes poetic when describing how the steelhead leave their ancestral waters
as 5-inch smolts and head out to sea for two, or three, or four years of
strength training. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>"They
mature out in the ocean, then they sniff out these freshwater arteries that
bleed these mountains and woods, and they migrate through," he says.
"They are the ghosts of the coast. You can't ever seem to get a full handle
on them." </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>The
ghosts come upriver to spawn in all four seasons. What separates the winter run
is that the fish are bigger, fatter and shinier, and the people are fewer --
fly-fishing doesn't have the same appeal when your fingers are too frozen to
clear the ice out of the guides on the rod. And don't expect <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City> to do it for you; it's not part of his
traditionalist approach. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Flies are
known for elegant names, like Royal Coachman and Gold Ribbed Hares Ear, but <st1:City
w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City>'s winter favorite,
tied by his wife, is a wet fly he calls Mr. Pimp, which he describes proudly as
"big and gaudy and full of motion." </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt'>Burton</span></font></st1:place></st1:City><font
size=2><span style='font-size:10.0pt'> ties on Mr. Pimp and hands over the rod.
The required cast is straight across the water, then letting the fly sink a few
feet and run with the current in a "dead drift" until it runs out of
line and swings across toward the angler. After making two casts you are asked
to give up that hard-earned foothold and move two wobbly steps downstream, the
"two and two" strategy for covering water. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>A fish
has been seduced by Mr. Pimp. It clamps on and, almost unnoticeably, ticks line
off the reel like the shark in "Jaws." Suddenly it takes off and the
reel sings. A brilliant silver specimen leaps out of the water, attempting to
throw the hook. While it makes a run, the fisher must pay out line, wait until
it slows down, then reel it back in, maintaining the right tension and keeping
the rod's tip up. All this while backing toward the shore over those same
slippery rocks that were hell on the way in, before you had a fish to disrupt
the balance. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>When the
fish tires enough to be landed, <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City>
gets actively involved, only because he doesn't want the fisher to hurt the
fish by trying to grab it. He wets his hands, snags it by the tail and cradles
it. A net might do damage. He doesn't even like it to be lifted out of the
water for a picture. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>The
steelhead is silver with black spots, indicating it is "fresh," or
still making its migration. A fish that has been around awhile or is making its
return trip to the ocean will have red sides and an olive back, more closely
resembling a resident rainbow. He judges it a 2-pound hen and releases it. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on"><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt'>Burton</span></font></st1:place></st1:City><font
size=2><span style='font-size:10.0pt'> knows that where there is a hen there is
a buck, so he gets out his rod and says, "Let me tiptoe through that one
more time." Immediately he engages the buck. He works it over to the bank
before the buck makes a vicious head shake and spits the hook. "The fish
got the best of me," he says, smiling while reeling in a mournfully slack
line. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Later
that afternoon, a hatch of the blue wing olive comes on, and that inspires <st1:City
w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City> to anchor his raft
and step overboard. Some fly-fishers swear a steelhead will not rise to a dry
fly, but he doesn't believe it. "It's the ultimate, ultimate," he
says, tying a tiny Quill-Body Parachute on a 6x line no thicker than a hair.
"The fish don't know they're not supposed to take a dry fly." </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>First he
studies the water and notices a pattern of ripples, or rises, moving in a
rhythm. It is one fish, feeding on the bugs. With a motion that looks
effortless, he increases his line with several looping false casts before
setting the fly down 60 feet across the water and 3 feet above the rise.
Sitting high, just like the live bugs on the hatch, his artificial bug floats
over the ripples. A small fish would leap out of the water to take a fly, but
the big ones don't bother. They just suck it under, and that's what happens. A
lunker pulls down, <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City>
pulls up, and there isn't enough strength in the line to hold the equation
together. He never gets a look at the fish, though later he claims to have seen
the word "HOG" written on its side. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>"Most
steelheaders realize that it's a fish a day," he says. "Anything
above and beyond that is a bonus." The bonus on this day is tightening up
on three fish, seeing two flyovers by bald eagles, and watching a three-point
buck swim in front of the raft. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>"The
river has been good to us," he says. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>A storm
is coming and the atmospheric pressure is dropping. "Fish like the sag in
the barometer," he says. He mentions that he has the next morning free,
but first his guests have to get through the night. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>The
entertainment and lodging options in downtown <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">Lewiston</st1:place></st1:City> are limited. If you're not the
B&B type, there is the Lewiston Hotel, built in 1896, which seems to be
perpetually for sale. It's tough to clear a profit on room charges of $50 a
night, single occupancy, breakfast included. There are five rooms on the second
floor, with the bathroom down the hall and fishermen snoring it off above the
bar like prospectors on "Deadwood." </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>To
upgrade the options, <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City>'s
brother Glenn and his wife, Kristyne, have opened the Old Bridge Cabin in one
of the newer buildings, which dates to the 1920s. Originally a one-room miner's
cabin, it was enlarged over the years and has two bedrooms, a kitchen, a view
of the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:PlaceName w:st="on">Lewiston</st1:PlaceName> <st1:PlaceType
w:st="on">Bridge</st1:PlaceType></st1:place> and warm chocolate chip cookies
on the table when chilled fishermen arrive. The charge is $125 a night. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Fittingly,
the cabin sits at the crossroads of Turnpike and Deadwood streets and there is
a front porch in view of a hand-lettered picket sign that reads "<st1:City
w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">San Francisco</st1:place></st1:City> -- 249
m." The action is 200 yards uphill at the hotel, where it is Spaghetti
Night, $7.98 for an unfinishable plate. <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City>
recommends splurging and adding the sausage -- "it's only 50 cents
more" -- but by 7 p.m., the special has been wiped from the chalkboard and
the room is all but empty. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Outside
on a smoke break, men can be heard arguing about who has better <st1:City
w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Lewiston</st1:place></st1:City> cred. "I
wasn't born here," argues one, "but I was definitely raised in <st1:place
w:st="on"><st1:PlaceName w:st="on">Trinity</st1:PlaceName> <st1:PlaceType
w:st="on">County</st1:PlaceType></st1:place>, which, if you haven't noticed,
is far removed." If you go into the hotel bar to make small talk with the
tender and ask about life in the big city, she responds, "The city is
Weaverville and the big city is <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Redding</st1:place></st1:City>."
</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>The night
keeps getting colder, and by dawn of the first day of winter there are 4 inches
of slush on the ground. By 7:30, a light snow is falling as <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place
w:st="on">Burton</st1:place></st1:City> steps into a favorite riffle. The
water temperature has remained at 41, but the air is down to 34. Casting a
Coppertone Stone (one of Pat's wet-fly creations) in the traditional
down-and-across method, it takes him 10 minutes to hook and land a 5-pound
steelhead, making up for the one lost the day before. </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p><font size=2 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>After 24
years of floating and guiding 800 to 1,100 miles a year, the thrill hasn't
diminished. "The more and the longer I do this, the more I realize I don't
know about the fish and the fishery," he says, later, back in his shop.
"It's the unknown that keeps me out there." </span></font><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><st1:PersonName w:st="on"><em><i><font size=2 color=gray
face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;color:gray'>Byron
Leydecker</span></font></i></em></st1:PersonName><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><em><i><font size=2 color=gray face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;color:gray'>Friends of <st1:place w:st="on">Trinity
River</st1:place>, Chair</span></font></i></em><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><em><i><font size=2 color=gray face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;color:gray'>California Trout,Inc., Advisor</span></font></i></em><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><st1:address tabIndex="0"
style="BACKGROUND-POSITION: left bottom; BACKGROUND-IMAGE: url(res://ietag.dll/#34/#1001); BACKGROUND-REPEAT: repeat-x"
w:st="on"><st1:Street w:st="on"><em><i><font size=2 color=gray
face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;color:gray'>PO Box</span></font></i></em></st1:Street><em><i><font
size=2 color=gray face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
color:gray'> 2327</span></font></i></em></st1:address><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:City w:st="on"><em><i><font
size=2 color=gray face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
color:gray'>Mill Valley</span></font></i></em></st1:City><em><i><font size=2
color=gray face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;color:gray'>, <st1:State
w:st="on">CA</st1:State> <st1:PostalCode w:st="on">94942-2327</st1:PostalCode></span></font></i></em></st1:place><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><em><i><font size=2 color=gray face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;color:gray'>415 383 4810 ph</span></font></i></em><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><em><i><font size=2 color=gray face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;color:gray'>415 383 9562 fx</span></font></i></em><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><i><font size=2 color=blue face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;color:blue;font-style:italic'><a
href="mailto:bwl3@comcast.net"><em><i><font face="Times New Roman">bwl3@comcast.net</font></i></em></a><o:p></o:p></span></font></i></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><i><font size=2 color=blue face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;color:blue;font-style:italic'><a
href="mailto:bleydecker@stanfordalumni.org"><em><i><font face="Times New Roman">bleydecker@stanfordalumni.org</font></i></em></a></span></font></i><em><i><font
size=2 color=blue face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
color:blue'> </span></font></i></em><em><i><font size=2 color=gray
face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:10.0pt;color:gray'>(secondary)</span></font></i></em><i><font
size=2 color=blue><span style='font-size:10.0pt;color:blue;font-style:italic'><o:p></o:p></span></font></i></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><em><i><u><font size=2 color=blue face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;color:blue'>http://</span></font></u></i></em><i><font
size=2 color=blue><span style='font-size:10.0pt;color:blue;font-style:italic'><a
href="http://www.fotr.org"><em><i><font face="Times New Roman">www.fotr.org</font></i></em></a><o:p></o:p></span></font></i></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><em><i><u><font size=2 color=blue face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;color:blue'>http://</span></font></u></i></em><i><font
size=2 color=blue><span style='font-size:10.0pt;color:blue;font-style:italic'><a
href="http://www.caltrout.org"><em><i><font face="Times New Roman">www.caltrout.org</font></i></em></a></span></font></i><i><font
size=2 color=blue face=Arial><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Arial;
color:blue;font-style:italic'> </span></font></i><i><font size=2 color=blue><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;color:blue;font-style:italic'><o:p></o:p></span></font></i></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>
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